Riga - A born-again Baltic Masterpiece

Even when Latvia was rigidly controlled by Moscow, Riga, the capital, was heralded for its painters, sculptors, photographers and designers. Today Riga’s many artists are part of the free-market whirlwind that has been blowing through ever since Latvia broke the communist chains in 1991. Designer hotels are springing up, galleries are throwing open their doors and cafйs, chic restaurants and bars are popping up like mushrooms on the forest floor.

Latvia is among the few countries left in the world where natural ecosystems, largely untouched by man, still thrive in over 50% of its territory. It is a haven for tourists who seek to experience a land where nature and tradition have coexisted in harmony from time immemorial.

In Latvia, you will find primordial wilderness areas characteristic of Scandinavia, a rich cultural heritage comparable to that of Middle Europe and countryside of pastoral serenity. It is a land of diverse terrain where plains interchange with hillocks and river valleys. Its stately forests, broad marshes and clear waters, its meadows, fields, groves, gardens and parks…together these features form the landscape.

The city of Riga, with a population of nearly 800,000 is recapturing the life it knew between the two world wars when independence was fresh, culture was thriving and the country had more wealth than Sweden. Tourism is growing every year as people begin to visit. Riga is a cultural city which reveals beauty, bustling nightlife, great cuisine and lovely architecture. You might not expect it, but Riga has one of the finest concentrations of Art Nouveau architecture in Europe. As you walk through the city, keep your eyes peeled for the trademark curved porches, leafy motifs, clean lines and classical influences of the Art Nouveau style.

Riga distinguishes itself with a unique and fantastically beautiful silhouette which is sometimes reflected in the Daugava, the largest river in the country, and sometimes secretively disappears in the fog. In 2001 Old Riga celebrated its 800th birthday. The town is split into two parts, on the East and West banks of the river. The Old Town is the most ancient part of Riga with many medieval buildings. Over time, it has become a part of the modern city where evidence of various centuries is everywhere. To the east the city canal winds between open parks which separate elegant, 19th century boulevards. This is the ideal place for a stroll to soak up some of Riga’s special atmosphere.

On top of the oldest churches in Riga (Dome Cathedral, St. Peter’s, St. John’s and St. Jacobs’s) are decorations of roosters and not crosses. According to both Riga’s and Christian tradition, the rooster is a vigilant defender against evil, and with his morning song he can drive away all bad things. The time before the rooster’s first song is full of evil. Therefore, the roosters are raised as high as possible, to hear their songs from far away.

It is also true that the rooster on a church steeple serves as a wind indicator. This is very important for Riga since the wind direction means a great deal for sailing vessels. Hence, roosters decorate all the churches near the Daugava River.

A little off the beaten tourist path is the eastern region known as Latgale, which offers a view into the past. You can still see many of the farmers carting their produce to the markets by horse. Latvia’s second largest city, Daugavpils, in this region, offers lots of open green spaces and a baroque charm.

In sum, Latvia is one of Europe’s great “get away from it all” discoveries. The many small medieval towns, country castles, museums and folk parks are waiting for you at bargain prices.

Test your Geo intelligence

1. Where is the area that is known as “Queen Maud Land?”
2. What English city was previously known by its Roman name, “Durovernum?”
3. What is the modern name for the country known as Upper Volta?
4. Where would you live if you were called a “Brummie?”
5. Which goddess is said to have been born off the coast of Cyprus?
6. In Vienna, what is known as the “Prater?”

Answers:

1) Antarctica, in the part claimed by Norway, 2) Canterbury, 3) Burkina Faso, 4) Birmingham, England, 5) Aphrodite, 6) A large amusement park, best known for its giant Ferris Wheel.